Wines And Other Alcoholicbeverages

ALCOHOLIC beverages, especially wine, require discussion because, if you value them in your scheme of things, you will wonder about their relationship to health and to the rest of your diet. We are not talking about alcoholism; the drunkard is an affront to himself and mankind and his health prospects are bleak. But wines, and even stronger beverages, have a place in civilized living and eating. The problem is to keep it civilized.

Alcohol is heavy with calories. Moreover, a drink before dinner generally stimulates the appetite. What a cocktail party does may be something else. The cocktail party is loudly condemned but it is an easy way to entertain and even those who label it as a social menace are seldom behindhand in accepting invitations.

We attend many medical meetings where the "social hour" before dinner is at least as popular as at a businessmen's convention. Almost invariably some doctor, while reaching for the third martini, remarks that, "cholesterol is soluble in alcohol". Yes, but only in pure alcohol. Blood tests show you are drunk whenever the concentration of alcohol in the blood reaches two parts per thousand.

Other arguments for alcohol protection against coronary artery disease come from observations on chronic alcoholics in hospitals and from the theory that "tension" promotes the disease. Postmortem examination of the coronary arteries of chronic drunkards often reveal a surprising freedom from atherosclerosis. The reason, however, is probably the peculiar eating habits of the drunkard who shuns food, especially while drinking, and is usually seriously undernourished.

There is really no evidence that "tension" promotes coronary disease, but it may contribute to high blood pressure and it is disturbing to the patient who already has heart disease. The tense and excited heart patient may ignore the warning signs of palpitation and pre-cordial pain ("angina pectoris") and to do more than his heart can stand, so his physician may advise him to take a drink or two to help relaxation. This is a therapeutic use of alcohol, about which there is argument. It is not suggested that alcohol is needed as prophylaxis for a normal, healthy individual.

Wine for Dinner We do not think of wine as medicine. Its real virtue, shared to a lesser extent with other alcoholic beverages, is a contribution to gracious living. A good glass of wine at the table complements the best cooking and enlivens even dull food. Besides, wine admirably serves some of the moistening function of fat in cooking. Excellent low fat sauces can be made with wine. But before talking about wine in cooking let us talk about wines themselves.

Wines

We are concerned only with traditional grape wines. Our experience with elderberry, dandelion, rose hip and similar "wines" is too limited for comment.

Fortunately, there is lately less of the snobbish nonsense about wines that hindered their use and enjoyment for so long by ordinary people. You really do not have to insist on Burgundy with venison or to know what château bottling means to order and enjoy wines. Few people can actually spot the difference between great and merely good vintages, and the person who says his meal is ruined if the Claret is a bit chilly is usually a tiresome poseur. But you will find it pleasant and profitable to learn a little about wines.

Forget the conceit that "South Africa produces as good wines as any in France". South Africa produces excellent wines but the finest French and German wines are just beyond comparison - and very expensive. The cheapest European wines are, however, surpassed by average Commonwealth wines available at a fair price.

All honest dry wines have a place at the civilized table. Sweet wines are something else; they have their uses, particularly with desserts on special occasions, but they should not be used before or during the main part of a meal if you hope to savour either food or wine flavours.

Dry white wines may be used with any food, though their character is lost against strong and piquant meat and cheese flavours. Any good dry red wine, too, will go reasonably well with almost any food except fish, shellfish, and ham. But some people insist that Claret goes well with ham. There are some experts who like a rough red wine with certain fish, mackerel for example, smothered in a Spanish or Livornese type of sauce of onions and tomatoes. The general rule is red wines for hearty meaty flavours, whites for more delicate flavours.

Attempts to compromise by suggesting that Rosé wines "go with anything" are mistaken, we think. A cold Rosé is excellent with light lunches on a hot summer day, and some people, especially ladies, like Rosé wines, possibly because the colour can be so beautiful. But maybe we are prejudiced.

No wine likes strong, acidic, or fruity flavours such as pineapple. The wine may help the fruit but not vice versa. Vinegar and wine are natural enemies so forget about the wine when eating salads. And for some strange reason wine, with the exception of the Japanese rice "wine", Sake, does not blend with most cookery of China and Japan. Sake, incidentally, served hot in tiny cups, is excellent with Japanese food and does well with some Occidental fish dishes.

If you are unfamiliar with wine at meals try a cold (not frozen !) glass of German Rhine wine or of French Chablis, or Italian Orvieto with almost any fish dish. And then try a glass of almost any dry red wine with spaghetti or game or anything flavoured with cheese. French Claret or Burgundy is remarkably cheap and is eminently drinkable for every day. Do not serve red wine very cold; room temperature is about right.

A help in buying wine is a reliable wine merchant who sells a good deal of table wine or a grocer who really knows his business. Someone in the shop, usually the wine buyer, should know something about wine and usually is happy to advise.

Store your wine on its side in a cool place, make sure it stands upright for half an hour or so before pouring (and do not shake it around when you do pour it), drink it (do not sip) in gulps large enough to "chew", and allow a fourth of a bottle per person for an ordinary dinner. For wine flavour at its purest, keep tobacco smoke away and nibble a little plain bread before you taste.

Cocktails before wine is a dangerous custom, as is after-dinner drinking. If you are having a good wine for dinner, the best aperitif is Vermouth with a twist of lemon peel or a glass of dry Sherry.